Home Security
Presentation by Myron Bird

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Survey your home - walk around your own house on the outside looking for ways you could get in with the least amount of noise and exposure to the neighbors or passers-by. These are the areas you should protect better.

Exterior Doors - at least 1-3/4" thick
     Best
          Solid wood
          Insulated metal-clad
          Insulated fiberglass-clad

     Fair
          Wood Panel

     Poor
          Hollow core wood
          Louvered glass door
          Screen doors and storm doors

     Windows in doors or side glazing
          Doors should be protected with double cylinder deadbolts

     Sliding Glass doors and windows
          Use broom handles or Charlie bars with header blocks

     Hinges - out-swinging doors have "NRP" hinges --Non-Removable Pin hinges or hinge bolt pins

Garage Doors - mowers, bicycles, tractors, cost money
     Best
          Steel
          Foam-filled polycarbonate

     Poor
          Thin single layer fiberglass

     Garage Door Openers -- use only those that use random rolling codes. Do you leave an unlocked vehicle in the driveway with an opener on the visor?

Basement doors and windows - most vulnerable areas

Dead bolts
     Single cylinder - should have at least 1" throw and 1" retained

     Double cylinder - must be used with caution!
DO NOT USE ON ALL DOORS SO THAT ESCAPE IN EMERGENCY WOULD NOT BE POSSIBLE!!
     They are best used on doors with glass that are hidden from general view. A better alternative is to protect the glass with 1/4" polycarbonate glazing.

Operation ID
     Engrave your PA driver license number on items easily stolen and "fenced".

Padlocks
     Pin tumbler, double locking shackle, ball bearing deadlocking, key retaining, guarded shackle



Door Security
Each of the components of the door system requires individual consideration with respect to security. These considerations include the lock on the door, the strike plate on the frames, and the hinges on the door. Safety Tip: All exterior doors should be equipped with 190-degree door viewers or peepholes so residents can check the identity of visitors before opening the door.


Types of Door Locks
Key-in-knob Latch*

The majority of all doors are equipped with a standard key-in-knob latch which provides little or no security. Note the term "latch" not lock. These devices have a spring which holds a latch in place. These latches can be defeated by wrenching the knob with hands or vice grips; using credit cards to slip the spring latch, kicking the door, or spreading the frame.

Key-in-knob with
Anti-Shim Device*

Spring-loaded latches can be either mortised (set into the door) or rim mounted (set on the door). Rim mounted spring latches are usually used as auxiliary locks, but provide little security because the latch is short and the jamb can be spread or the screws can be popped out by kicking the door.

Some manufacturers add security features such as anti-shim devices on the key-in-knob devices. If properly installed, these devices may prevent slipping the bolt with a card. However, the knob can be easily wrenched off or the jamb can be spread to release the short spring bolt.

*Spring latches are never acceptable for entryways.
Rim Mounted Locks
Surface mounted or rim mounted deadbolts, both vertical and horizontal bolts, also provide good security. They mount on the surface of the door and are easy to install. This type of lock is less expensive than single or double cylinder mortise locks.
Vertical Deadbolt
The surface mounted deadbolt locks have either a vertical or a horizontal bolt. The vertical drop has an interlocking principle which locks the bolt into the strike plate.

Horizontal Deadbolt

Concealed Header and Threshold Bolts
These devices are used to secure the inactive door on one side of double or French doors. They may also be used on Dutch doors to secure one half of the Dutch door to the other half.

Door Hinges
Doors that open outward have exposed hinges. These doors can be unhinged by removing the pins and then lifting the door away from the frame.

There are hinges that have nonremovable pins or hinges containing set screws to prevent pin removal.
EXPOSED HINGES
The existing hinges may be protected by removing two screws opposite each other from both leaves of the hinge. Insert screw, nail or wooden dowel into the jamb leaf protruding 1/2 inch. Drill out the opposite screw hole in both the top and bottom hinges. The hinge pins may be removed, but the door will remain firmly in place.


Chain Latch
Chain latches provide false security. They are easily forced off by kicking the door or prying a partially opened door. This includes chain latches which are key operated.

There are many good locks available and, if properly installed, they can provide adequate protection.

IMPORTANT: THERE IS NO LOCK WHICH CANNOT BE DEFEATED BY AN EXPERIENCED BURGLAR USING THE PROPER TOOLS.

Padlocks
Padlocks are generally used to secure fence gates, storage sheds, cellar doors, etc.

There are many padlocks on the market. A well-constructed padlock will have the following features.
o Hardened steel 9/32" shackle
o Double locking mechanism heel and toe
o Five pin tumbler
o A key retaining feature, if possible. (Key cannot be removed until the padlock has been locked.)

Padlocks should never remain unlocked. This is an invitation to a potential burglar, who can remove the padlock, have a key made, and return the padlock to its original position. Later, he or she can return and enter the home, using the newly made key.

Hinging Hasps
Hinging hasps should be of hardened steel and installed with carriage bolts through the door or gate. Use large washers on the inside. After nuts are secured, deface the threads of the bolt ends to keep nuts from working off or being removed. The hasp should be installed so that when it is closed, all bolt heads are covered.

Extracted From: Home Security Surveys, Maiyland Crime Watch, Maryland Criminal Justice Coordinating Council, undated

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